1. Red Wine – Often regarded as the number one nightmare stain, red wine can effectively be removed if you’re in the know and act quickly. First, put a handful of salt onto the stain – the idea is that it will absorb the colour, so watch to see if your salt turns a shade of pinky red. Next, immerse the garment in cold water and add biological detergent. Soak it overnight, or for as long as you can, then wash the item as normal.
2. Beetroot – Delicious to eat, but a nightmare to remove, the purple stain of beetroot is a real eyesore. If possible, treat the stain as soon as it occurs by immersing the garment in a bowl of cold water. Dissolve a few squirts of washing up liquid in the water and rub the area gently with your fingers. If you do this straight away and it’s not too bad a stain, it can work wonders. However, if the stain doesn’t budge, try soaking it in warm water with some biological detergent.
   In the case of a beetroot stain being on clothes that are dry clean only, first dab the stain with a tiny amount of cold water. If that doesn’t work, take it to the dry cleaners and leave it to their expertise.
3. Chewing gum – This pesky menace is a real pain when it comes to sticking to clothes. If you find yourself with a chewing gum nightmare, put some ice cubes in a small plastic bag and place it on the clothes where the gum is. If it’s practical (and you’re able to remove the said item of clothing) put the clothes into the freezer to harden the gum. Once the gum is hard, it should be easy to pick up and shouldn’t leave any stains.
4. Grass – These tell-tale greeny brown stains are frequently found on children’s clothing and particularly show up on lighter coloured fabrics. When you find the stain, soak the clothing in warm water and add some biological detergent. Leave for a while and then check on the stain. If it hasn’t been properly removed, some people recommend using a dab of methylated spirits to remove the rest.

5. Fruit juice – It’s amazing what annoying stains a few drips of fruit juice can leave behind. As soon as you can, immerse the clothing in cold water and leave until the stain comes out. If it doesn’t all seem to go, then put it in warm water containing a drop of biological detergent. Finally, give the item a thorough wash.
6. Beer – This one requires a little bit of maths. Get some distilled white vinegar and dissolve one part white vinegar with five parts of lukewarm water. When the mixture is fully dissolved, sponge it gently onto the affected area of the fabric, then rinse it off in cold water. Next, soak the item for a while in warm water and biological detergent, before rinsing off. Finally, wash the clothing thoroughly as normal. For items that are dry clean only, you can try using a tiny amount of the white vinegar mixture, but otherwise you’re best off taking it to be professionally dry cleaned.
7. Hair dye – Do-it-yourself home hair dye kits can be great, but aren’t so thrilling if you accidentally drip any of the dye on your clothing. It’s really important you deal with this type of stain as soon as possible, as because it’s a dye, it does run the risk of leaving a permanent stain. So, soak the item immediately in cold water, rubbing the stain with a sponge soaked in washing up liquid. Ideally, this should remove the bulk of the stain, but if any remains are lingering behind, you can soak the clothing overnight in warm water containing biological detergent. Even though the stain may then be removed, wash the garment as normal.
8. Nail varnish – Nail varnish can be a real pain to remove. Some people recommend using a non-oily nail varnish remover and applying it gently to the underside of the fabric, rather than directly on the stain itself. Be careful though, as it doesn’t suit all fabrics, so try and test it first by dabbing a tiny bit on the hem of the garment. Once you’ve applied the nail varnish remover, wash the item as normal. This won’t work on items that aren’t washable though, so take them to the dry cleaners.
9. Blood – This is another stain that’s best treated as soon as possible, as it’s much harder to get out once the blood has dried. Put the item in a bowl of cold water, gently rubbing the stain with your fingers. Ideally you should see the water turning red as the stain comes out. Keep changing the water and keep gently rubbing the stain. Some people recommend adding a few sprinkles of salt into the water as well. Once the stain has fully disappeared, wash the item as normal.
10. Sauce or Ketchup – Sauces, such as tomato sauce, can linger for longer than you’d like if you don’t act quickly. First, dab off any excess sauce or ketchup, particularly if the stain has just occurred, then rinse the affected area under cold running water. Next, pour some washing-up liquid onto a sponge and soak the item in warm water, slowly dabbing at the spot with the sponge. If the stain is ultra pesky and won’t move, try dabbing it gently with methylated spirits. Finally, wash the item as normal.

By Rachel Newcombe
©2008 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

Without a doubt, the prospect of doing the laundry is dreaded by the typical person. In point of fact, there are a number of tips associated with the chore of laundry that can make the whole process far easier and much less of a drudge. By paying attention to the do’s and don’ts referenced in this article, you will be well on your way to mastering the care and cleaning of your everyday clothing.

These tips are designed not only to make certain that your clothing is spotless once cleaned but these suggestions are provided to extend the life of your garments and to save you sacred time in the process.

Soak, Soak, Soak

One of the biggest problems that most people face when dealing with laundry is the task of making certain that stained clothing comes clean. The typical person in this day and age lacks the time to spend pre-treating and scrubbing away at pieces of clothing in hopes that a stain will disappear.

The best technique that you can employ in dealing with removing stains and making certain that your clothing comes out sparkling clean is to presoak your wash every time. The practice of presoaking is simple and requires very little time and almost no effort on your part.

When it comes to presoaking, simply add the proper amount of laundry detergent to water drawn into your washer. Make certain that the detergent is thoroughly blended throughout the water. When this is completed, add your clothing. Allow your washables a chance to soak for between twenty to thirty minutes before you begin the regular wash cycle.

Always Sort Your Colors

The 21st century truly is a point in history where people are overscheduled and overbooked. They simply find themselves cutting corners whenever and wherever possible. However, when it comes to time saving techniques, failing to sort out your colors when you do your laundry is not a wise course. Sure, you will save a spot of time while loading your washing machine. But, in the long run, you will find yourself spending more time replacing damaged clothing. In addition, in short speed you will discover that many of your garments do not look flattering any longer -- colors fade and become dull when colors are not properly separated before cleaning.

Don't Overload

You may think that you can save yourself a great deal of time -- and maybe even some money -- by overloading your washing machine. You may be like some people who try actually to cram upwards to two load of laundry into one machine cycle.

In the final analysis, overloading your washing machine can have a number of negative consequences:

• First, your clothing will not become fully clean in an overloaded machine.
• Second, your clothing will be more apt to be burdened with detergent residue if you overload your machine.
• Third, overloading a washing machine can end up damaging your equipment in a very short amount of time.

Instead many modern washing machines offer short or half-load cycles that when used in combination can be much more effective than fully loading a machine.

Manage Your Cycle

One of the best ways that you can ensure that your clothing enjoys a long life is to make certain that you pay attention to the type of cycle that best serves your garments. In haste, many a person pays no attention to monitoring or managing the correct wash cycle for clothing items.

While most people understand the necessity of separating out clothing items of different colors, the same people do not pay attention to the wash cycles that are called for different garments. By failing to pay attention to what type of wash cycle is best for a particular type of clothing, you will be aging your garments before their time.

Avoiding Wrinkles

There are three steps that you need to keep in mind when it comes to avoiding wrinkles in your wash. Wrinkled clothing and dealing with wrinkled clothing can be the most frustrating and time consuming element of tending to laundry.

• First, pay attention to when your washing machine completes its work. By promptly removing your clean clothing from the washer directly after the spin cycle ends and putting the garments into a dryer will work to reduce a significant amount of wrinkling that normally is associated with laundry.
• Second, pay attention to the temperature setting on your dryer. Do not ratchet the dryer temperature up too high. High temperatures tend to increase the presence of wrinkles in some clothing.
• Finally, as with the washing machine, pay close attention to when your dryer completes its cycle. Remove the clothing and hang them on a quality hanger promptly in order to avoid undue wrinkling of your garments.

By making the effort to follow the five tips outlined in this article you will find that your clothing is cleaner and freer from wrinkles after each and every laundering. In addition, your garments will enjoy a longer lifetime if you do follow these pointers and suggestions. Finally, by applying the tips outlined in this article, you will end up saving yourself time and money over time.

©2008 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

Once a wool garment is worn, it should be left on a quality hanger for 24 hours. Any wrinkles that were produced during the wear generally release by themselves if the garment is left hanging for a period of time.

Spots and stains should be removed as soon as possible from wool garments with a brush or damp sponge.

Wool garments should only be dry-cleaned once a season and if they get wet, be sure to keep them away from heat to avoid shrinkage.

If wool needs to be ironed, only use the steam without touching the iron on the garment and try to steam it on the under-side of the fabric.

©2006 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

The first thing to do is choose a well-lighted area with a clean floor to set up the ironing board. In other words, you don’t want to be ironing next to the dog dish where you might accidentally drag a sleeve through. Place the ironing board so that the wide end is to your right, if you’re right handed, and near an electrical plug. Most ironing boards are adjustable for height. Set yours so that it is about waist level for you.

If the shirt you will be ironing is linen or is very wrinkled from the wash, spray the shirt lightly with water using a spray bottle. Roll the shirt up and wrap it in a towel for five to ten minutes. This will allow the moisture to distribute evenly. You want it to be only slightly damp when you iron it.

Fill the water reservoir of your iron to the full line with cool water. Some irons recommend distilled water, which is a good idea if your tap water is hard. Minerals from the water will build up in the iron over time and cause the steam function not to work properly. Also a mineral buildup can cause the iron to spit and even leave rust-like stains on your garments.

Plug in the iron and set the temperature gauge to the setting specified for the fabric of your shirt. If you’re unsure, check the label on the shirt. Set the iron on its end point up or on a stand while it heats and during ironing when you need both hands to adjust the garment on the ironing board. Set the iron on the square end of the ironing board.

When the iron is hot, turn on the steam feature. Unroll the damp shirt and face the ironing board with the square end and the iron to your right. Hold the shirt by the collar right side of the shirt facing you and spread the collar out on the ironing board. You will be ironing the underside of the collar first. Press the collar from the point edges to the middle. Turn the collar over and press the other side in the same way. Sometimes the collar will have “ease” that allows it to be smooth when it is curved around your neck. Ironing the collar toward the center will prevent you from ironing the extra “ease” fabric into a little crease where the collar is topstitched. If you notice “ease” fabric, just let it run in front of your iron to the center without making a crease. If you like, you can fold the collar down as it will be worn and lightly press it so that the fold is more distinct and the collar lies flatter against your neck.

Next take the shirt and pull it onto the tapered end of the ironing board so that the back yoke is flat on the board and the board extends a little into one sleeve. Press half of the yoke. Turn the shirt around and place it on the board so that the un-ironed half of the yoke is on the board. Smooth the yoke out with your hands so that it is flat and then press it with the iron. If the entire yoke will lie flat, you can iron it without changing its position.

Sleeves can be a little tricky, but the secret is to take your time and be sure the fabric is flat with no big wrinkles before you apply the iron. First flatten one cuff on the ironing board and iron it. Then take that sleeve by the seam and lay the whole sleeve flat on the ironing board. If you can see the crease on the top of the sleeve from previous ironing, try to match it again so that you have a single crease line on the sleeve. Start at the top where the sleeve is sewn onto the shirt and work your way down to the cuff. The placket may need to be held with your free hand as you iron it, but be careful not to burn your fingers. The steam coming out of the iron can be scalding. Turn the sleeve over and iron the other side. Repeat the process with the other sleeve.

Now you’re ready to iron the body of the shirt. With the collar to your left, place the left side of the shirt on your ironing board. On a man’s shirt, this will be the side with the buttonholes. It may be easier to iron the upper portion by turning the shirt slightly so that the tapered part of the ironing board slips into the sleeve a little. Iron around the collar carefully as it is easy to cause a wrinkle here. Pull the shirt flat on the ironing board again and iron the placket and the rest of the front left side. Rotate the shirt toward you so that half of the back is on the ironing board. Smooth it out with your hands and iron it. Keep rotating, smoothing, and ironing until you come to the right front of the shirt. Iron the top section first then the rest of it.

You can now put it on a hanger. Make sure it is hanging straight and that the sleeves are flat and folded softly toward the front. Buttoning the collar button and the first button or two will help the shirt keep its shape. Button the collar buttons on button-down shirts. Hang it in the closet with space around it so that other clothes do not crush your freshly ironed shirt.

Nine Tips for Professional Results:

1. Make sure your iron is hot enough for your fabric but not hotter. A too cool iron will not remove all the wrinkles, and one that is too hot can scorch or otherwise damage your fabric. Delicate fabrics may need to be ironed using a press cloth. A clean white flour-sack dishtowel will work.
2. Use spray starch for extra crispness, but be aware that a heavily starched shirt may wrinkle more when worn and be uncomfortable as well. Use a light touch with spray starch for best results.
3. Take your time. Hurrying can cause you to make mistakes.
4. Keep a spray bottle of water handy. If you accidentally iron in a big wrinkle, lightly spray it with water, wait a minute or so and iron the area again.
5. Keep the iron moving every few seconds when it’s on the fabric. You don’t want to scorch or burn a hole in your shirt.
6. Don’t press a shirt that is not clean. Ironing a stain may set it in.
7. Use the tip of the iron to work around buttons and the placket on the sleeves.
8. When you’re finished ironing, empty the water from your iron while the iron is hot. This will reduce the moisture that remains in the water compartment. Allow the iron to cool before you put it away.
9. Keep your ironing board pad clean and in good condition. Damage to the pad may transfer to your garments.

By Linda Nelson
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

How many times have you been ready to walk out the door, only to discover a major tragedy has befallen your outfit?  Discover short, easy and relatively painless solutions that will revitalize your wardrobe.

Keep a clever arsenal of handy helpers at the ready and easily accessible. The best place to store these items is in a small hanging cosmetic bag that you can keep in your closet.

What you need to assemble:

1) Clear nail polish. 2) Glue stick. 3) Masking tape or duct tape. 4) Stick on Velcro. 5) Small pair of scissors. 6) Small, white candle. 7) Safety pins. 8) Sewing needles with large eyes

Now you are ready to tackle most minor problems.

• Stuck zipper - Rub a small amount of candle wax onto the area of the zipper closest to the stuck zipper pull. Work the zipper until you work it free.
• Zipper won’t stay up - Use a safety pin, loop it through the small opening that is found at the tip of almost every zipper pull, and secure the zipper to your waistband.  Be sure to attach the pin with the sharpest side facing outward to avoid becoming pinched.
• Loose hem - Use a strip of tape (the heavier the fabric, the stronger the tape) to secure the hem until you have more time to sew it up.  sIf you will be wearing the outfit for a long period of time, try to use adhesive backed Velcro.
• Clothing pulls - Use a small needle with a large eye to thread the pull to the underside of the garment.  Secure it with clear nail polish, especially if it is long in length.  Try to use a smaller needle for finer fabrics.
• Run in your pantyhose - Use a small dab of clear nail polish to stop the run from getting any larger.

A clothing emergency occurs and you are not at home.  Not a problem if you think creatively.  Hem needs a lift?  Use scotch tape or a large Band-Aid.  Zipper won’t stay up?  Use a small, coated paper clip.  Run in your hose?  Use a bit of washable glue or glue stick.

Some mistakes are more easily taken care of if they are simply avoided in the first place.  Follow these simple suggestions and enjoy the absence of stress in your dressing moments.

• Drip Dry Clothing - Invest a few pennies in the purchase of plastic hangers and avoid those unsightly rust spots that may occur if a wire hanger is used to dry your clothing instead.
• Donning pantyhose - If your hands become rough during the winter months, simply apply hand cream or lotion on a nightly basis.  If you’ve forgotten to keep up with this ritual, simply apply a small amount of cream or lotion and work it into the fingertips while applying it over the hands before putting on the pantyhose.
• Shoes - If your feet have a tendency to perspire, especially if you wear nylon hose, avoid the resulting odor by placing a fresh dryer sheet in the toes of the shoes.  Should the shoes become excessively damp, place balled up newspaper in the entire shoe.  This will not only absorb the dampness, but also the odor.
• Clothing pulls - Some pulls can be easily avoided by paying attention to the surfaces that you sit upon.  Never sit directly on concrete or unsanded wood since these surfaces are notorious for creating pulls.

Preparing for the unexpected is stress free.  Being prepared when the unexpected occurs is stress free.  Remember the motto of the better-dressed woman, quick and easy makes my day!

By Susan M. Keenan
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

Cotton is one of the most popular fabrics not just because of its comfort but because it also creates an easy garment to keep clean.

Cotton can be washed in the washer at even the hottest of temperatures. Any detergent can be used and bleach can also be used as needed.

Cotton can wrinkle easily but an iron on the highest heat is still safe to use on the fabric.

©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

• Leather and suede should be stored in a closet that is cool and well ventilated. The garments are best covered with white muslin that’s been washed. Supple leather garments should be laid flat and padded well with white tissue.
• Rayon should also be stored flat. If the garment has to be hung, pad it with white tissue and cover it with clean, white muslin.
• Linen garments should be rolled. If you feel you must fold them, be sure to refold often to avoid fabric from becoming permanently creased. Always cover with white muslin that’s been washed.
• Knitted and silk fabrics should always be stored flat. If you feel you must hang these garments, be sure to pad well with white tissue and cover it with clean, white muslin.
• Garments made of metallic fabric should be rolled with clean, white muslin or tissue paper separating each layer.
• Fur garments need to be stored in a cool, dark place. Cover fur with clean, white muslin. However when storing fur, professional cold storage is best.
• Wool should be thoroughly cleaned, padded and wrapped in white tissue. Add mothballs to the storage area to prevent moth damage.

More Storage Tips:

• When storing garments, use a chemical desiccant to absorb moisture and prevent mildew. Do not let the desiccant touch the garments. Examples of chemical desiccant are calcium chloride or silica gel.
• Reduce dampness in closets by tying pieces of chalk together and hanging them from a support post or from the ceiling.
• If the weather in your area is cool and dry, be sure your storage areas are well ventilated.
• Always store garments loosely so they can breathe and air can circulate. Never use fabric finish or starch on garments that are to be stored.
• Protect clothing from wood acid by lining dresser drawers with an acid free shelf paper or quilted fabric. Never use wallpaper remnants or gummed shelf paper. The backing will attract insects to your clothing.
• Always clean garments that are to be stored. Insects are attracted to drink, food and perspiration.
• Areas where garments are stored should be dark and clean. Light fades colors and attracts insects.
• Never store clothing in a cold basement or hot attic. Extreme temperatures will damage your clothes.
• Cotton, linen, silk and wool are all natural fibers. Always store these in a well ventilated area.
• To rid garments of wrinkles when they come out of storage, put them in the dryer on the fluff or air dry cycle that has no heat.
• When adding mothballs to a storage area, place them in an old sock so they don’t touch the garments.
• If you’re using moth crystals, put them on the adhesive backing of duct tape and hang them in the storage area.

Use the tips in this article to safely store all of your off-season clothing. Storing garments correctly will help your clothing to stay beautiful for years to come.

By Mary M. Alward
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

New laundry products come on the market in a steady stream, but don’t overlook some of the products that have been around for a while that can make your laundry chores easier.  Some of the products may cost a little more than other similar products, but the results and time saved make them worth the money.  Others may even cost less, which is a benefit everyone loves.

Liquid Detergent

A good quality liquid detergent can be a real boon in the laundry room.  You don’t have to wait for it to dissolve in the wash water.  If you’ve ever added powder detergent after putting clothes in the washer, you can appreciate the benefit of not having powder detergent stick to your clothes and make a mess and possibly damage a garment.  Another benefit of liquid detergent is that it can be used to treat spots.  You may want to check for color-fastness on an inside seam first, but you can treat the stain with a small amount of the regular amount of liquid detergent directly on the spot, wait a minute or so and add the garment to the rest of the wash.

Color-Safe Bleach

This product comes in liquid and powder form and boosts the cleaning power of detergent.  With color-safe bleach you don’t have to worry about the risks of chlorine bleach leaving spots that can’t be repaired.  Color-safe bleach is particularly helpful to moms whose children bring in challenging laundry problems such as mud, grape juice, grass stains, and other kid-prone stains.  It can be used on even the bright colored garments without risk of fading the colors.

Detergent with Color-Safe Bleach Added

This product combines two steps into one and produces cleaner clothes with less effort.  Particularly convenient is liquid detergent with color-safe bleach added.  You get all the benefit of both products in one.  Be sure to check the label on detergents with bleach.  Some are recommended for white clothes only.  The type of bleach used in those products is not color safe and can leave spots on clothing especially if the product is not fully dissolved before the clothes are added to the washer.

Spray Pre-Treatment for Stains

Spray pre-treatments are a big help in extending the life of your garments because they remove stubborn stains, and they also save time.  Just spray stains with the product, wait up to five minutes, or the time specified by the manufacturer, and add the garment to the washer.  There is no prolonged and time-consuming routine that must be done.  These products work well on greasy food stains, grass stains, and tomato sauce.  The treatment can be repeated, if necessary, on a stubborn stain after a garment is washed but before being dried in the dryer.

White Vinegar

Vinegar is not necessarily thought of as a laundry product, but you’ll be surprised at the benefits of keeping a bottle in the laundry room.  Adding 1/2 to one cup of white vinegar to the final rinse water, reduces the detergent remaining in clothes making them softer and fresher.  Vinegar has the added benefit of being very inexpensive, which makes it worthy of being considered for a fabric softener substitute that reduces static electricity.  Vinegar is famous for its odor reducing properties so adding it to the rinse water of a stinky load of laundry—say your son’s athletic clothes—makes perfect sense.  Vinegar is also touted as a great stain remover for certain stains, such as fruit stains, wine, coffee, and tea.  Just soak the garment in full strength vinegar for about an hour before washing as usual.

Anti-Static Spray

These anti-cling sprays remove static that can cause embarrassing problems, such as skirts that cling to panty hose.  Even clothes that have been treated with fabric softener can build up an excess of static electricity in winter.  Anti-static sprays treat the problem without sending a garment back to the laundry.  Anti-cling sprays also make removing pet hair and lint easier by removing the static electricity that causes them to stick like glue.  These products are even handy for other uses such as spraying a hairbrush to tame flyaway hair or spraying on carpets to prevent those surprising shocks when you touch a light switch or another person.

Spray Starch

Spray starch has been around for decades, but its benefits are still appropriate for modern life.  Spraying starch on collars, cuffs, plackets, and yokes can give a crisper finish to ironed clothes and give a more professionally laundered appearance to clothes.  It also makes ironing easier because it helps remove wrinkles.  Another advantage of spray starch over regular starch is you control the amount of starch used and the placement.  For example, you can heavily starch the placket and the cuffs but lightly starch the collar.

Keeping Laundry Simple

You don’t have to go to a lot of trouble and expense to make the most of getting your clothes clean.  Depending on tried and true products can simplify the process and save you time and make your life simpler.

By Linda Nelson
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

What good is the style and cut of the outfit, if they can’t take their eyes away from the wrinkles?  Maintaining your wardrobe to look its freshest is simpler than finding the perfect sweater to match your new skirt and less painful than paying the bill for your fashion expenses.

The best way to keep your clothes fresh and attractive is to avoid over stuffing your closet and drawers.  If you use your space wisely, you will save countless hours by not having to iron, continue looking for something that isn’t wrinkled, looking for a different pair of slacks to go with the sweater that is wrinkle free and most importantly of all not having to put all of those outfits back into their respective homes.

Keep it as organized and clutter free as possible.  Rule of thumb is, if you haven’t worn it in three years, you never will.  Unfortunately, this never works for me.  I no sooner toss a relatively worn out shirt, then my youngest daughter asks me why I haven’t worn it.  Immediately upon discovering its demise, she bursts into tears and laments a lost opportunity to wear something truly retro and amazingly authentic.

What to toss:

• Clothing you have outgrown (Believe me, if you haven’t lost the 20 pounds that you promised to lose on New Year’s Eve three years ago, you aren’t going to lose them.)
• Pantyhose that have a run in a visible spot.  Even if you are desperate, you are still going to switch the skirt for a pair of slacks and grab a pair of socks.
• Stained clothing, which have refused to bow down to the magical powers of the newest stain-removing agent, are never going to appear on your body outside of your home.
• The t-shirt that the ex-boyfriend left at your home the last time he was there two years ago needs to find a new home.
• The sweater that itches because it is made of wool and you are allergic to wool.
• The ugly scarf that your sister-in-law gave you for your last birthday.

I offer a bit of cautionary advice here.  If it is one of your old favorites, a time proven classic, one of those items that is only worn at weddings or formal events, or something you might pass down to your daughter in a year or two, then find a place to keep it safe.  Otherwise, toss it in the trash or give it to a charitable organization that collects used clothing.

Quite possibly one of the best ways to avoid too many clothes in the closet is to curtail your shopping trips.  Let’s face it; no one needs three identical sweaters, which differ in color only. 

Another easy method of maintaining a wrinkle free wardrobe is to invest in clothing that is relatively wrinkle resistant.  Many of the polyester and spandex blends offer a wrinkle resistant capacity that is nearly perfect.

By Susan M. Keenan
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

Have you ever avoided purchasing an article of clothing that you really liked because it said those three dreaded words, “Dry Clean Only”?  Even if something very nice is on sale at a great discount, we sometimes decide not to buy it because it costs so much to have it dry cleaned.

This is where home dry cleaning kits can make your life easier.

Dry cleaning is a misnomer. It is not a dry process. When clothes are cleaned at a professional dry cleaning establishment they are immersed in a solvent that really gets into the fibers and releases the stains and dirt that cause odor and discoloration.

In a home dry cleaning kit you get cloths infused with a chemical solution in them and a large bag in which to put the clothing. Some kits contain a separate bottle of stain remover for pre-treating spots before placing the clothing in the bag. Other kits suggest using the cloth with the chemical solution to gently rub the stain, then toss the same sheet in the bag with your clothes. You then take the whole bag and put it in the dryer for the time indicated in the kit instructions. To be on the safe side, it is a good idea to try the pre-treating solution on a hidden spot on the garment to check color-fastness before using it on a visible area.

If there are greasy stains that are set, the home dry cleaning kits may not be a great option for you. The sheets tend to work better for water-based stains than for oily or buttery stains. Some kits have petroleum based solvents while others are basically soap. Determining the cleaning agent each particular kit uses is difficult, as it is considered proprietary information and the particular cleaning agent is not listed. It may be better to take a garment with a large oily stain to a professional where the solvents are able to penetrate the fibers of the garment and lift the stain out.

If the garment is velvet, suede, leather or fur you will need to take it to a professional dry cleaner.

However, if your clothing just needs to be freshened up or has small food stains or even mildew, the home dry cleaning kits work remarkably well. The sheets also leave a pleasant scent on the clothing. If after removing the garment you see a stain that had gone unnoticed the first time, simply take the sheet (which is probably still damp) and go over the stain then toss it back in the bag and dryer. It will not harm the fabric to clean it again.

Often, our dry clean only clothes are things we wear only for special occasions. They don’t get ground in dirt or body odor that needs to be deeply laundered. For that the home dry cleaning kit is an absolutely perfect solution at a fraction of the cost for a professional dry cleaner.

When to use home dry cleaning kits:

• When the garment has a small or medium food stain.
• When the garment has acquired a musty or smoky odor.
• When the garment needs some freshening up.
• When the garment is lightly wrinkled. The steam generated from the dry cleaning sheets and the heat of the dryer will remove slight wrinkling.
• When the garment has somehow managed to become mildewed. The home dry cleaning kits work very well at removing the smell and the residue.

When to use a professional dry cleaner:

• When there is a very large stain.
• When the stain is oil-based.
• When mending is needed in addition to cleaning (unless you want to do the mending as well.)
• When the garment is very wrinkled. The home dry cleaning cloths will remove small wrinkles with the steam created in the drying process, however, clothes that have been on the bottom of your closet probably need to be taken to a professional.
• When the garment is covered in pet hair. The home dry cleaning cloths will not remove hair.

Home dry cleaning kits are particularly effective on outer garments. Blazers, jackets and coats seldom make contact with skin oil or perspiration. They, basically, need to be refreshed. Having a winter coat dry cleaned by a professional can cost a lot. For a fraction of the cost and a half hour’s time you can put your coat into a bag with a little sheet and toss it in the dryer and still have sheets left over for other things. Most home dry cleaning kit instructions suggest putting three to four items in a bag together. It is better to place a winter coat in the bag alone, due to its size. However, for blazers and other things, three to four items at a time works beautifully. The bag itself can be used again and again.

The next time you’re agonizing over that beautiful new Dry Clean Only item that would go just perfectly with that pair of pants you just bought, remember that you have the option to Dry Clean at home.

©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

It's one of those infallible facts of life that the best clothes and worst stains always meet.  And they usually find their magnetic appeal greatest when the clothing in question is on a child who's due to make an important appearance in a public place.

Don't despair -- prepare and repair!  A little foresight and a lot of patience go a long way in stain removal if you remember these 6 basic stain-fighting survival tactics:

1. Keep it simple!

Instead of a cupboard filled with complicated and probably toxic chemical combinations, keep the basics on hand:  Clean, soft cloths. Spray and squirt bottles of various sizes.  Dish soap, dishwasher soap, salt, lemon juice, rubbing alcohol, shaving cream, hairspray, baking soda, and every parent's miracle drug, hydrogen peroxide.

Always treat the stain before laundering, and never put a stained item into a clothes dryer, unless you really, really enjoy stain removal!  Heat causes most stains to deepen their hold on the fabric, and removal is usually much tougher!

2. An ounce of prevention...

This rule sometimes reads: Red dye is the enemy.  Permanent markers are evil. Avoid them. Never give either of those things to children or pets (yes, that wicked mystery stain left behind after Fluffy vomited is residual red dye, completely unnecessary but oh-so-common in animal food.)

If you still need the pound of cure, you can usually remove red dye stains by spraying on a mixture that's one-half hydrogen peroxide and one-half water.  Always use cool water.  Let the spray sink in but do not rub it!  Wait half an hour, then rinse with cool water.  If the stain is not completely gone, repeat the process, rinsing with a 50-50 mixture of vinegar and water.  Repeat a third time, and then rinse again with plain cool water.

If red dye is a staple at your house, you're not alone.  Food manufacturers love it.  If you can't do without it, buy hydrogen peroxide in the mega-bottles, and always keep a spray bottle of the peroxide-water mixture on hand.  It works wonders!

3. Heat hurts

The short and sweet of it:  Heat sets stains, so avoid it.  There are rare occasions where laundering after pre-treating your stain might call for hot water when the stain is oil-based -- asphalt and wax come to mind -- but 99% of the time, keep it cool.

4. Patience is a virtue

Don't panic just because Susie's melting red Popsicle is now dripping from the hem of her white lacy First Communion dress ... or Johnny's got a bright green grass stain on his knee the night before his Little League All-Star photo shoot.  Follow the motto:  Stain-remove in haste, repent at leisure.  It's true. Most stain-removal tactics take at least 30 minutes, most take longer. And that's just the first go-round. Unless you managed to grab a stain literally as it was forming, you'll want to repeat the removal process several times.

To get Susie's dress white again, remove the popsicle from her hand and the dress from her body. Then grab your bottle of hydrogen peroxide and water and go to it as described above.

Johnny's knees will be good as new if you get to the grass stain quickly, treat it by gently applying a paste of dishwasher soap and a little water.  Let it set for at least 30 minutes, then rub very gently.  Let it set overnight, then toss it into the washer and launder in cool water and detergent.  Those grass stains should be history!

5. Don't rub it in!

Attacking the offending spot with a vengeance may make you feel better for the moment, but it really won't help! Plus you'll just contribute to your own madness by spreading the stain around, and in some cases, you could damage the fabric.

Instead, kill the stain with kindness!  Use a gentle touch.  Apply your solution with a soft cloth or paper towel, and blot or sponge to remove most stains.

For most food stains, use a squirt bottle to apply a mixture of liquid dish soap and cool water.  Let it soak in, rinse with a mixture that's one-third vinegar, two-thirds cool water.  Then use the rule of threes, repeating the process three times. Launder as usual in cool water, and make sure the stain is gone before tossing the fabric into the dryer.

6. Always be prepared

Every home is different with different activities that lead to different stain problems.  Some places, it's swamp mud;  other places, it's mustard and ketchup.  What disasters strike most often at your house?  Know the enemy, and keep a cheat sheet to quick stain solutions, targeted to those likely mishaps, taped inside a kitchen cupboard.

What's typical?  Stubborn stains such as ink can often be removed with alcohol.  That's why hairspray and shaving cream are such easy solutions to many stain-removal traumas.  They're alcohol-heavy and usually handy.  

Ice cubes are great for gum and wax, which need to be hardened first, then cracked and scraped off.

Preparation also means anticipation!  Keep a little sprayer bottle of liquid dish soap and water in your car's glove box, along with a clean, dry cloth, to treat those fast-food spills, ice cream drips and grassy slides into home when they happen.

And remember, nothing heals wounds and stains like time does. Clean laundry isn't your life's mission, and no stain is worth a day's anxiety. If a stain proves more stubborn than you are, let it go!  Relax, change the subject and your clothes, and smile on to fight those stains another day!

by Kate Sheridan
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

Whether you prefer dazzling sequence, leather and suede or soft cotton and polyester, how you care for your garments will affect the life length of your clothes tremendously.  You can also save money on future clothing purchases by taking the proper measures to care for your clothes.

Below are ten ways to extend the life of your garments and keep them looking new, longer.

1. Read Care Labels
   Believe it or not, failure to follow the care instructions on clothing is the number one reason an item gets ruined in the wash.  These instructions are included by the manufacturer for a reason.  Here are some of the most common wash/dry instructions and how to apply them to your garment.
   
   • Machine wash (cool, warm or hot):  Wash the garment in your washing machine with the temperature of water the label recommends.
   • Machine wash (normal, permanent press or delicate):  Wash in your washing machine with the type of cycle the label recommends.
   • Hand wash:  Soak and scrub only by hand.  Item is probably too delicate for harsh machine cycles.  These items usually have to be laid out flat to dry also.
   • Bleach (any, non-chlorine or no bleach):  Bleach according to the instructions.  Some items might be too delicate for even non-chlorine bleaches.
   • Tumble Dry:  Dry in dryer with the setting on the label.  Temperature and delicacy levels should be considered.
   • Ironing:  Iron according to the instructions.  Steam or dry iron, and temperature setting should be considered.  Many newer models of irons have settings labeled by the material type as well.
   • Dry Clean:  Some materials are suitable for dry clean only, and some should not be dry cleaned.  The label will usually show this.

2. Hang Clothes to Dry
   Because dryers can wear out garments in a hurry, it's good to hang your favorite items to dry whenever possible.  In the spring and summer, you can hang them outdoors.  During cold months, hang them by hanger in an area of your home where air is free flowing for quick drying. Hanging clothes to dry also helps prevent shrinking.
3. Don't Wash Clean Clothes
   If you wear a garment for a few hours only and it still appears clean and smells fresh, there's no need to wash it again.  Wear an item a couple of times before washing to preserve its life.  For example, a dress you only wear to church on Sundays might last longer if you take it off and hang it in your closet when you get home.
4. Teach Your Kids to Take Care of "Good" Clothes
   Have a set of good clothes for school, church and special occasions, and then have a separate set of play clothes for your kids.  Teach them to change clothes before playing outdoors.  Their good clothes will last much longer!
5. Take Immediate Action
   When a clothing item gets stained from food or a spill, take immediate action and clean the stain right away.  Waiting allows the stain to settle into the cloth, and you might not be able to clean it later.  This is especially true with greasy foods and colored drinks.

6. Wear Aprons
   Ever wondered why your grandmother wore aprons every time she entered the kitchen?  She understood the importance of taking care of clothing.  While cooking, grease and food tend to get splashed on clothes easily.  Wearing an apron might not be fashionable, but it's worth the trouble if you're planning to keep your clothes a while.
7. Buy Fabrics that are Durable
   If you have a choice, buy fabrics that are naturally durable and require very little care.  Some fabrics are more durable than others.  A cotton/polyester blend is easier to care for and tends to last longer than pure cotton fabrics.  Rayon/polyester is more durable than pure rayon.  Acrylics, silk, acetate and suede require more detailed care or dry cleaning.  Materials that are difficult to care for often get neglected, especially when you're very busy.
8. Avoid Bleaching when Possible
   If you have no reason to bleach an item, leave out the bleach.  The harsh ingredients in bleach along with your normal detergent can cause clothing to become worn out in a hurry.  Only bleach when you want to brighten whites or remove stains.
9. Starch as Needed
   Starch only those garments that need stiffening for appearance.  Avoid starch if it's not necessary because the tiny crystals left in the material as a result of starching can wear the garment out quickly.
10. Sewing Buttons
    Learn a few sewing techniques so you can make small fabric repairs to your clothing as needed.  For instance, learn to sew on buttons or repair small tears in seams.  Many people simply throw away a garment when a button falls off.  What a waste!  A simple five-minutes of sewing could have saved the garment and the money spent to purchase it.

Why spend money on new clothes when you can keep your clothes in great shape and enjoy them for many years?  Use these ten tips to keep your clothes looking great longer, and reduce your clothing budget dramatically.

By Candice Pardue
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

We buy new clothes and make ourselves look good, but what about our actual wardrobes? All too often they easily become overloaded, with too many clothes piled in to a small space, shelves bursting with jumpers or accessories and shoes littering the floor. Is this really the proper care your clothes deserve? Most definitely not! So, before you pile in any new purchases, read on and discover how you can give your wardrobe a much deserved makeover.

1. Set a regular time to clear out your closet – Ideally, this should be a task that you do regularly, not just once in a blue moon. The changing of the seasons, such as the summer or winter, are good times to choose as they also signify a time when you’ll need to dig out thinner or thicker clothing and, as they come around regularly, it could serve as a reminder to act.
2. The clothing reality check – It’s easy to hang onto some clothes for sentimental reasons, cling to the idea that they may one day come back into fashion again or in the desperate hope that you may one day manage to fit back into it, but sometimes you need to take a reality check. Sort through your clothes and ask yourself, honestly, if you’re ever going to wear that again. If you’re in any doubt, ask yourself when you last wore that item and, if it’s a year or over, then ditch it. It’s hard to part with favourite clothes, but there’s no point in keeping things endlessly.
3. Sort the shelves – If your wardrobe has shelves, then sort these out too. Items that are folded, such as jumpers, tops or trousers, can easily become jumbled, crumpled and out of sorts, so take everything out and carefully re-fold them. Not only will it help the appearance of your shelves look better, it will also have a positive impact on how your clothes look when you wear them.
4. Store seasonal clothes separately – If your wardrobe is bulging at the sides, consider storing seasonal clothing separately, and out of your main wardrobe. This way, all your clothes stand a far better chance of hanging nicely and getting less creased or wrinkled. Invest in a few good clothing boxes or zipped bags, wash and iron all the clothes you’re putting away, and then fold them up carefully into the boxes or bags. Store in a cupboard or under the bed until the season ends, then do the same with your summer or winter clothes.
5. Clear the floor – The floor of wardrobes can notoriously become cluttered and piled up with shoes or handbags, plus it can become dusty. Take time to remove the entire contents of the floor and sort through it. Again, put yourself to the reality check when it comes to excess shoes or handbags – do you really need them all? Use a duster to thoroughly clean out the floor of your wardrobe and make sure there are no unwanted stains lurking on it.
6. Re-organise your hanging clothes – Improve the appearance of the inside of your wardrobe by re-organising your hanging items. Try categorising them according to item, with all your jackets, skirts and trousers hanging together and any shirts, tops or jumpers together. You could also put tops on one side of the wardrobe and bottoms on the other. That way, everything should be easy to find, especially if you’re in a hurry.
7. Improve the scent – There’s nothing like the smell of freshly laundered clothes, but after they’ve been hanging in your closet for a while the aroma can fade. You can practically tackle this by adding some scent to your wardrobe, either through specially scented products hanging from your hangers or through putting packaged scented soaps or pot pourri in your wardrobe.
8. Get some storage boxes – Tidy up any other accessories or knick-knacks littering your wardrobe, like hats, scarves, gloves or belts, invest in some pretty storage boxes and transfer the items into them. Not only will it keep everything organised and together, so that you’ll know where to find them in an instant, but it will also make your wardrobe look much tidier, too.

Giving your wardrobe a makeover needn’t take up too much time and can really improve the look and feel of your clothes. Plus, when you come to open it in the morning or evening, you needn’t feel depressed or down at the sight, as everything will be smelling nice, looking great and ready to wear!

By Rachel Newcombe
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

While ironing is not a chore most of us love, or even like to do, it is one of those necessary things in life unless we want to look wrinkled and haphazard.  The following will help to make this chore more efficient.

Believe it or not, how you wash and dry your clothes can help to eliminate wrinkles.  Make sure you always read the label on the garment to clarify the washing and drying instructions.

Here are some tips on washing/drying fabrics to help reduce wrinkles:

• Certain synthetic fabrics such as washable woolens, nylon, acrylic, and polyester should be washed in hot or warm water. Use a permanent-press cycle.  This will help reduce and sometimes remove wrinkles altogether.
• Bright colors and fabrics only lightly soiled should be washed in cold water to help reduce wrinkles.
• This is a mistake a lot of people make.  Instead of just throwing your clothes from the washer into the dryer, make sure you shake out each item of clothing before placing in the dryer.  This will help to reduce the wrinkles.
• Overloading the washer/dryer can cause clothing to wrinkle.  Make sure that each load you put in has plenty of room for tumbling.
• Another mistake people make is excessive over drying.  Too much heat can set wrinkles.

Using the correct iron temperature is also very important.  Make sure you read the garment care instructions on your piece of clothing.  If one is not available, you can use the following for a basic guideline.

• Acetate, Acrylic Fabrics should be ironed with a cool iron.
• Cotton, Linen, Ramie should be ironed using steam with a medium to high heat.
• Nylon should be ironed with low heat.
• Polyester should be ironed with a low or medium heat.
• Rayon and Silk garments should be turned inside out and ironed using low heat.
• Cashmere, Mohair, and Wool should be ironed with steam and a medium heat.

Other tips for ironing include:

• When ironing, start with the clothing that needs low heat, then medium heat, and finally high.
• When ironing, make sure you keep a spray bottle handy.  Creases will last longer if you create a crease, dampen it and then re-iron it.
• When using water in your iron, make sure you do not use hard water.  The minerals in the water can build up and eventually clog the iron. 
• If you are using starch while ironing, either spray with starch and let sit for a moment iron quickly as the starch might stick to the iron and burn.
• Iron with the grain of the fabric so that it doesn’t stretch. 
• Keep your iron clean.  If the sole-plate is looking dingy and dirty, it may reduce its effectiveness.  Clean with toothpaste or an iron cleaner.
• Once you have ironed your clothing, hang immediately.
• Never iron a soiled item of clothing.  This will only set the stain in further.

Again, the most important thing you can do when ironing your clothing is to read the care instructions on the garment. 

By Penny S. Harmon
©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.

During the cold season, a favorite sweater can be your best friend.  A new sweater lays smoothly, hugs your body in the right places, and has no stray fibers.  It is free of loose threads and stains, and it even smells nice.  But sweaters are often high-maintenance, and old sweaters look depressing, fit poorly, and may show wear.  Dry-cleaning is, of course, the best way to clean sweaters and maintain their beauty.  But dry-cleaning costs can be prohibitive.  So how can you keep your sweaters looking like new?  Follow these steps to provide some of the most expensive elements in your wardrobe with the special care they need at a low cost to you.

• Wear a cotton shirt under your sweater.  This prevents body oils and sweat from penetrating the fibers of the sweater, meaning you can get more than one wear out of it.  More wear and less wash is always a good thing for sweaters.  Washing is especially hard on these garments because the woven fibers stretch and shrink drastically during the wash/dry process.
• Never put sweaters in the washing machine.  Always hand wash them by filling a sink with cold water, adding a small amount of detergent specially formulated for “delicates,” and gently soaking the sweater. 
• If you have deodorant stains on the inside of your sweater, turn it inside out and carefully scrub the sweater against itself in the water until the deodorant dissolves.
• For sweaters made of synthetic fabrics, sometimes it is okay to drape the sweater over the bottom rung of a plastic hanger (though don’t hang it by the shoulders—this will stretch it out!) and let it drip-dry over the sink or tub—or outside, if weather permits. 
• For other sweaters, make sure that you can find a place to lay the sweater flat, preferably on a towel over a ventilated surface.  Barring this lay your sweater on a towel on a water-proof floor (like linoleum or tile), and change the towel frequently, flipping the sweater so that it does not lay too long it its own moisture and dries evenly.  Ideally, you can find an area that has enough air flow to speed up the drying process, like under a heating duct.  If the sweater is almost dry, you can drape it over the towel bar in your bathroom so that mold does not begin to grow, producing an unpleasant, musty smell.
• Never hang sweaters; always fold them up and put them in a drawer.  Use scented sachets to make them smell good.
• Be mindful of your sweater while wearing.  Don’t pull on the sleeves—this will stretch them, and the rest of the sweater, out of shape.  Push up the sleeves when using a mouse; the constant motion of the sweater sliding against the surface of your desk can dirty the sleeve and wear out the fibers.  Try to avoid your purse strap rubbing against the shoulder of your sweater, as the motion will pull and pick the weave.  Don’t allow Velcro, such as on a bag or coat, to come in contact with your sweater—this has an instant, disastrous effect!

Keeping your sweaters looking like they did the day you bought them isn’t difficult.  It may take a little more work than you’re used to, but these cost- and fashion-saving practices will make it well worth it as you move from season to season.

©2005 garmentcare.info. All Rights Reserved.